Cabinet Installation, Adjustment, Repair and Cleaning Guide

This guide was designed to assist normal cabinet installation.  Please read all instructions before you begin installation.  If you experience any difficulty  or are unsure about any step or process please contact Crossroads Support at 1-888-586-1688.

Tools Needed:

• Carpenter's Square
• Chalk line
• Electric Drill
• Extension Cord
• Hammer
• Handsaw (a Circular Saw is recommended)
• Level
• Stud Finder
• Patching Plaster
• Phillips Head Screwdriver
• Phillips Head Screw Gun
• #2 Phillips Driver Bits
• Pry Bar
• Stepladder
• Tape Measure
• Masking Tape
• Wood Shims
• (1)Straight 2"X4" 8' Long
• (3) Straight 1"X2" 8'
• (2) C-Clamps/Wood Clamps
• 3/16" Wood Drill Bit
• #8 X 2 ½" Drywall Screws
• #8 X 1 ¼" Drywall Screws

Before You Get Started...

Be sure to remove appliances, tables, chairs, and other large obstructions from the kitchen to provide ample installation space.
Shut off waterlines, gas, and electricity to kitchen appliances and sinks.
You'll also need to remove sink and old cabinets, countertops, baseboards, molding, and old flooring, if applicable.
To ensure that your cabinets will properly align, remove the doors, drawers, and shelves prior to installation.
If there are soffits, make sure that they are properly constructed before installing your cabinets.  It is essential that there is at least 84" (if installing 84" high cabinets) of clearance between the bottom of your soffits and the highest point on the floor in the room.  Please note that cabinets 13" deep must have soffits that exceed 14" depth. If crown moulding is to be used there must be additional vertical clearance and soffit depth must be greater than 15".  NOTE:  If soffits are pre-existing without 84" of clearance, you will either need to remove them, design the space with no tall cabinets or you will likely have to cut your tall cabinets down at the bottom (though toe kicks will no longer align between tall and base cabinets and this solution is not recommended). 

Installation

Mark Your Walls for Cabinet Layout

1. Locate the highest point on the floor along the walls and within 22" of the wall where the base cabinets are to be installed using a straight 2' X 4' and a level.

2. Measure up 34 ½" from the highest point and use the chalk line and level to mark a level line around the wall.  This is your base level line, and is where the top of your base cabinets will rest so that the countertops are level and even.

 

 
3. Measure up 19 ½" from the base level line (1 ½" for the countertop and 18" for the space between the countertop and bottom of the wall cabinets). Using the chalk line and level mark a line around the wall that will represent where the bottom of the wall cabinets will rest.

4. Now measure up another 30" and use the chalk line and level to mark a line around the walls which will represent where the top of the wall cabinets will align (84").               

5. Now transfer the cabinet dimensions from your plan to the walls to make sure the layout will work.

Make Sure Walls Are Plumb

1. Use the straight 2' X 4' to identify any uneven places in the wall where the wall cabinets will be installed, both vertically and horizontally.

2. If any raised areas are found, use sandpaper or a scraper to even them out.

3. If any low areas are found, use patching plaster to make them level or use shims during cabinet installation.

Locate Wall Studs

1. Cabinets must be securely fastened to the wall framing. Locate your wall studs using a commercial stud finder or, if you don't have a stud finder, try lightly rapping the wall with a hammer until the raps sound solid.  NOTE:  Most wall studs are located 16" on center, but this is not always the case.  You can double-check that you've properly identified your wall studs by driving small finishing nails into the wall.

2. Once you've located your wall studs, mark them with chalk line or pencil.

Install Wall Cabinets Under A Soffit

Use your level to check the bottom of the soffit; if it is not level, use your 2' X 4' to find the point closest to the floor. NOTE: This point must be at least 84" above the highest point of the floor and above the reference line you previously marked for the top of the wall cabinetry.

Install Frameless Wall Cabinets With No Soffit

Frameless cabinetry requires that a filler be installed between the cabinets and the wall and/or soffit so that doors and drawers can fully open. 

Be sure to properly place wall blind corner cabinets (if applicable) out from the wall as dictated by your plans.  You might have to pull these cabinets out further than anticipated or install additional filler on the adjacent cabinet if you have decorative door handles to allow a full 90º plus opening.

It's easy to scratch and ding new cabinet doors and drawers during the installation process. Use masking tape to label and number each cabinet with corresponding labels and numbers on each drawer and door so you can match them up once the cabinet boxes are installed. Carefully store them in another room where they will not be damaged.

It is recommended that wall cabinets be installed first since the base cabinets would be in your way if they were already in place.

1.  It's helpful to screw straight 1" X 2" ledger strips at the line representing the bottom of the wall cabinets to keep them level and act as a support while installing the wall cabinets. Screw into the marked stud locations with the #8 X 2 ½" screws, the #2 Phillips bit, and screw gun.

2. Starting in a corner, use the ledger strip for support and position your corner cabinet and mark the places where the studs will align.

3. Starting at ¾" down from the inside top of the cabinet, drill 3/16" holes through the back of the cabinet where it aligns with the studs. Drill pilot holes ¾" up from the inside bottom of the cabinet where it will align with the wall studs.    NOTE:  Additional holes must be drilled through the center hanging rail on tall cabinets to secure them to the wall framing.

4. Position the cabinet on the ledger again and use the level to make sure that it is plumb up and down both sides and front (use shims as necessary between the cabinet and wall to ensure plumb) and use the #8 X 2 ½" screws, the #2 Phillips bit, and screw gun to secure it to the wall through the holes you drilled in the previous step.

5. Set the next cabinet in place after performing steps # 2 & 3 above. Snug up cabinet to the wall and cabinet previously installed. Line up the adjoining sides and make sure the front edge of each cabinet is even, top to bottom and the top and bottom of the cabinets are even . Clamp the cabinet sides together tightly with the wood clamps. NOTE:  Place a soft material between the clamps and the cabinets to avoid marring the surface.

6. Connect and secure the two cabinets together with the 3/16" drill bit drilling a ¾" deep hole through the side of one of the adjoining cabinets  (it is recommended that you remove the hinge plates on the side of the cabinet and make the connection the where the screw will be concealed once you replace the hinge plate). Then screw together side using  the #8 X 1 ¼" drywall screws, the #2 Philips bit and screw gun, through the hole into the adjoining cabinet until tight. Repeat behind each hinge plate.

7. Secure to wall as in step #4 above.

8. Remove the wood clamps.

9. Repeat steps 1-9 for the remaining cabinets, checking often that the cabinets remain plumb and level.

Install Wall Cabinet Fillers, Valances, and Molding

NOTE: Fillers are needed to fill in and create clearance when using blind corner cabinets and when cabinets terminate at a wall. They allow clearance for doors and drawers to operate properly. A filler may have to be cut to size using a circular saw or a table saw.

 
1. Fillers should be positioned between the cabinet and the wall or the blind corner.

2. Cut your fillers to fit the allotted space.

3. Drill pilot holes through the end panels of your cabinets at hinge level (it is recommended that you remove the hinge plates on the side of the cabinet and make the connection the where the screw will be concealed once you replace the hinge plate), 3/8" from the front edge.  Secure in place with #8 X 1 ¼"screws into the filler piece making sure the face of the filler is flush with the front edge of the cabinet side (If a overlay filler piece is included, cut to size and attach to the filler front prior to attaching the filler to the cabinet).

4. Cut your scalloped valances, if applicable, by locating the center of the space to be covered and making your cuts from both ends so that the center line is proportionate to your space.

Install Frameless Base Cabinets

NOTES: Pull blind corner cabinets out from the corner the appropriate distance as called for in your kitchen plan and install the included filler between the blind corner cabinet and the next cabinet for proper operation.

If you're installing a Lazy Susan, make sure you affix 1" X 2" strips to adjacent wall studs in the corner for countertop support.  Otherwise, you risk having a weak point in your countertop.

Always start the base cabinet installation in the corner.

1. Place the corner cabinet in position and, using wood shims, shim the bottom of the cabinet to be level with the base line on the wall that you marked earlier. Use shims between the cabinet and wall to make sure the sides and face of the cabinet are plumb and recheck for level.

2. Using the stud marks you made as a reference, drill 3/16" pilot holes in the back of the cabinet approximately 3/4" from the top of the inside of the cabinet.

3. Secure the base cabinet to the wall with the #8 X 2 ½" screws, the #2 Phillips bit, and screw gun.

4. Set the next cabinet in place. Snug up cabinet to the wall and base cabinet previously installed. Again use the shims under the bottom of the cabinet and between the back of the cabinet and the wall to ensure the cabinet is level and plumb and lined up with the reference line on the wall.

5. Line up the adjoining cabinet sides and make sure the front edge of each cabinet is even, top to bottom and the top and bottom of the cabinets are even. Clamp the cabinet sides together tightly with the wood clamps. NOTE:  Place a soft material between the clamps and the cabinets to avoid marring the surface

6. Connect and secure the two cabinets together with the 3/16" drill bit drilling a ¾" deep hole through the side of one of the adjoining cabinets  (it is recommended that you remove the hinge plates on the side of the cabinet and make the connection the where the screw will be concealed once you replace the hinge plate). Then screw together side using  the #8 X 1 ¼" drywall screws, the #2 Philips bit and screw gun, through the hole into the adjoining cabinet until tight. Repeat behind each hinge plate.

7. Make another screw connection near the top of the adjoining base cabinets ¾" down from the top and ¾" back from the front of the cabinet.

8. Secure the base cabinet to the wall with the #8 X 2 ½" screws, the #2 Phillips bit, and screw gun.

9. Remove the wood clamps.

10. Repeat steps #4 through #9 for all of the base cabinets.

11. Install all fillers as necessary.

Install Frameless Tall Cabinets

Use the same techniques to install tall cabinets and refrigerator panels always making sure that they are level, plumb and perfectly aligned with the adjacent cabinetry.   

Finishing Touches

1. Reinstall all doors and drawers.

2. Install decorative moldings and finish toe kick materials.

3. Install all decorative hardware. 

IMPORTANT NOTE:  You will want to countersink your decorative hardware screws on the back of the cabinet door of bi-fold corner cabinet in order to prevent the screw head hitting and damaging the finish of the adjacent cabinet door/drawer.

Bumper Adjustments

Bumpers are designed to protect your cabinet finish from damage for years.  To replace a bumper that has fallen off, simply push a new bumper into the old bumper hole.

Door and Drawer Bumper

 

Care and Cleaning

Follow these tips to keep your cabinets looking bright and fresh for years to come.

• Remove installation dust with a damp cloth and immediately dry.
• Keep cabinets indoors and dry.
• Use a cleaner that is non-petroleum, non-silicone, and non-wax based.
• Clean spills immediately, and use lint-free cotton cloths.
  You MAY use mild detergents for hard-to-remove stains, but DO NOT use abrasives of any kind or you will damage your wood finish.
• DO NOT leave rags soaked in solvents sitting on the cabinets as they will damage the finish. Finishes are resistant to most kitchen stains, but can be damaged by alcohol, dye, ammonia, shoe polish, and other materials.  Be careful of what you put on your cabinets to insure their longevity.
• Melamine and Thermofoil panels should be cleaned with plastic-safe mild household detergents.  DO NOT clean with anything containing acetone, acetate, or ethyl alcohol.
  ALWAYS apply your cleaning solution to your cloth BEFORE cleaning cabinets, rather than directly to the cabinets themselves.
• Clean decorative hardware with warm, soapy water, and immediately dry.
• Try using cotton swabs for cleaning hinges.
• DO NOT use brass or silver polish on your hardware as these polishes can damage the finish
• Use glass cleaner on glass door inserts.
• DO NOT clean caming on glass door inserts with detergents.  Instead, softly brush caming with 0000 steel wool and apply a thin layer of carnauba wax.
• Remove drawer inserts, utensil trays, etc. and clean with warm soapy water.  Dry before returning them to the drawers making sure that moisture does not collect between the tray and the cabinet. 
• Clean knife section and wood cutlery dividers with damp sponge or cloth and dry.
• Regular cleaning will help prevent discoloration from tobacco smoke, but it will not prevent it entirely.

NOTE:  Excessive heat from self-cleaning appliances can damage cabinets.  Before beginning the cleaning cycle, you should remove all nearby cabinet doors and drawers.  You should also consider installing a heat shield between your self-cleaning appliances and cabinets to prevent damaging cabinet finish.

Repairs

You can repair most minor cabinet scratches and scrapes by utilizing a touch-up kit.  More serious gouges are best left to professional refinishing companies.

1. Use a Scotch-Brite pad to buff the scratch/scrape and surrounding area.

2. Shake touch-up pen and depress tip on scrap wood to release the enclosed touch-up solution

3. Using light, even strokes, color the buffed area and rub in with your fingers

4. Let dry for 2 minutes, then spray with a clear semi-gloss (35 to 40 sheen) polyurethane spray (optional)

NOTE:  For deeper gouges, you can try using a soft fill stick that matches your cabinet colors.  To mimic the natural grain pattern (such as on door edges), try using a thin permanent marker.

 

Troubleshooting Installation

 

 

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